Travels with Bill and Nancy--Cuba

May 15, 2018 – El Paso to Van Horn

We fly to El Paso (via Phoenix) and pick up our rental car, a brand new RAV 4 – with only 4 miles on the odometer.

We drive about 120 miles on I-10 East to Van Horn, Texas. Google guides us right to the Taylor Motel, opened its doors in 1915. Oldest motel we’ve ever stayed in the U.S. and the cheapest ($45 / night) and the cleanest with the best manager (Jose).

Jose’s recommendation for dinner is RJ’s Grill – just down the street. We try to blend in with the locals as we gobble down Chicken Fried Steaks and Jalapeno poppers. We order a second of Jalapeno peppers because my taste buds were ready to party. We don’t normally get this faire back home in California.

Taylor Motel, 1915	Taylor Motel, 2018
Our room at Taylor Motel	Jalapeno popper

May 16, 2018 – Van Horn to Ft. Davis (with a stop in Marfa)

We eat breakfast at Tortilleria Lizy’s, a local dive tucked away on a side street. We eat with the hardy locals filling up on eggs, harsh browns, and bacon before going to work. We inhale the same hardy fuel before we drive south 73 miles to Marfa.

Tortilleria Lizy

Marfa, a little West Texas town of about 2,000 folks, is on the brink of becoming the next artsy fartsy “Santa Fe.” The transition is clear as day with wine bars next door to feed stores populated by two distinctive types -- old-timers and hip “new-timers” who are bi-coastal and intellectuals (or pseudo intellectuals). They all seem to coexist in the same small quaint town. However, a sign “Make Marfa Texas Again!” posted in some of the less-hip store windows makes us chuckle.

We stop at the old Fort Russell, active from 1911 to 1946. It served to protect the citizens of West Texas from Mexican bandits after the Pancho Villa raid. (Poncho Villa fascinates me.)

The base grew during World War I. After the war, it slipped into the role of border patrol where the “Mounted Watchmen” kept illegal aliens from crossing the Rio Grande into the U.S. The base expanded greatly during World War II. It was “home” to 185 German prisoners of war. Two of the prisoners, Hans Jürgen Press and Robert Humpel, were talented artists and left behind some wonderful murals.

The fort was abandoned after WWII. Some 30 years later, in the late 1970’s, Donald Judd, a famous minimalist artist, wanted to escape from the art scene in NY and find a larger palette for his massive installations. He was smitten by the wide open spaces in Marfa and the way the light hit the dusty old town. He moved his family out to West Texas and bought up the old Fort, along with lots of other properties in surrounding small towns.

He began converting the buildings on the base to house his permanent large-scale avant garde, art installations, along with works by his contemporaries, John Chamberlain and Dan Flavin. Before Judd died in 1994, he filled the place with art and forever changed the face of Marfa.

Judd's museum opened to the public in 1986 as Chinati Foundation. Since Judd's death, about 10,000 visitors make a trek here each year; among them are Bill and I, and our San Diego friends, Mike and Susan. The four of us Californians established our designated “Texas Adventure” hook-up time at 10 o’clock, right here at the Chinati Foundation housed in the old army base building. We have our $20 “masters” tickets for a 3 hour guided tour.

Cinati Foundation, Marfa, Texas

Cinati

Jessica, our guide on this HOT Texas Day, first takes us into two old brick artillery sheds. Here, about 100 of Judd's signature boxes, made of silvery milled aluminum, sit in perfect quiet rows. Each box is unique. Some have sides, some do not; some are open at the top, others closed; some have vertical, horizontal, or diagonal interior slats. Depending on your position (and mood), the time of day, the weather conditions, the boxes appear transparent, shadowy, black, reflective, or mirror-like. At times, I was in awe of the peaceful, glowing effect created by the simple placement of the boxes. Then, at other times, the cynical in me would cry out, “What the heck was he thinking – It’s just a bunch of polished up refrigerators scattered about.”

Cinati Foundation, Marfa, Texas

Judd's aluminum boxes

When we browse the old hanger, we glance out the window and see a couple of large, red sidewinders resting in the shade next to the building – They catch our attention. In the distance, we see another Judd installation -- more boxes – but these are concrete structures that look like shipping boxes scattered about the 3 acres of open field. It looks like a fun place to explore – but on a hot day and with sidewinders and rattlesnakes lurking within – I think NOT!

Judd's Concrete Boxes

Next, Jessica walks us through six former military barracks to see Dan Flavin’s fluorescent light installation. The first couple of barracks were interesting. At the entrance, you see the hint of neon light reflected on the back wall, enticing you to the bright glowing light structure. At first a curiosity, it soon became monotonous. The heat was chipping away at our sense of wonder.

Dan Flavin’s fluorescent light installation

After exploring Dr. Russell, we fill our water bottles, load into our cars and caravan to a couple other Chinati Foundation installations around town.

We see John Chamberlain´s sculptures displayed in Marfa Wool & Mohair Company, an old warehouse building in downtown Marfa. He collected smashed up car pieces and welded them together into large metal large sculptures. Welding those sharp, rugged, crumpled up automobile parts into a balanced sculptures must have been like “wrestling with the devil.”

John Chanberlain's Wrecked Car Sculpture

John Chamberlain´s sculpture

Robert Irwin’s installation, housed in the military hospital, is next. He is the most minimalist of all. Using the entire interior of the hospital, he installs linear scrims that divide the room and catch the light from the windows lined up just below the ceiling. It’s the filtered light that makes the place magical. Irwin create a very simple stage set, although very Fellini-esque. Again, I cycle through my feelings from “how cool … how fun” to “what the heck is this?!”

Robert Irwin’s installation

After the tour, we seek out The Food Shark, a trendy food truck in Marfa known far and wide for its Mediterranean food – a reputation well deserved. 4 very big thumbs up!

Food Shark

After lunch we walk around Marfa – the old courthouse, Hotel Pasadena (the place where Elizabeth Taylor, James Dean and Rock Hudson called home during the filming of “Giant”) and several classic old buildings. On the outside, buildings were the real deal. If you just drive through the town, you’d think nothing has changed in this old western town. However, you only need to stick your head into a few doors to find, high-end massage/SPA, yoga studios, trendy shops, wine cellars, art galleries, etc. By the way, it was heaven sticking our heads into many a door because of the a/c blast we received!

Downtown Marfa

Marfa City Hall

The heat finally got to us, so go our separate ways – Mike and Susan drove back to “Bambi” (their adorable RV and home away from home) currently parked in the Ft. Davis State Park. Bill and I head to the Butterfield Inn located in the middle of the little town of Ft. Davis.

Butterfield Inn

After we unpack and rest a bit, we explore Ft. Davis. In the old library, bought by Judd and gifted to the city, we find a mini museum and a very “Lonesome Dove” exhibit. (Lonesome Dove was shot in these parts.)

Butterfield Inn

Ft. Davis Courthouse

At 7 pm, we drive to the Ft. Davis State Park’s campgrounds and find “Bambi” with Mike and Susan waiting with drinks and steaks ready to grill. Such a beautiful evening and a10 fun time!

May 17, 2018 – Ft. Davis to Big Bend

Bill and I have breakfast at the old hotel in Ft. Davis and then tour Ft. Davis. Boy is it hot today! The heat didn’t keep us from exploring the old fort -- I’m a sucker for old forts. Fort Davis, established in 1854, protected travelers on the main trade route between San Antonio and El Paso Way. From the fort, it’s 200 miles to El Paso and 400 miles to San Antonio. Named after Jefferson Davis, it was abandoned in 1861, but activated again in 1867 to protect the settlers (from the Native Americans not doubt).

The fort closed in 1891. The fort is beautifully restored. By roaming around the trading post, enlisted men’s barracks, officers’ housing, hospital, dining hall, etc., we got a good sense of what the place was like.

Fort Davis	Fort Davis
Fort Davis	Fort Davis
Fort Davis	Fort Davis
Fort Davis	Fort Davis
Fort Davis	Fort Davis
Fort Davis	Fort Davis
Fort Davis	Fort Davis
Fort Davis	Fort Davis

We meet Mike and Susan at 10:30 in Ft. Davis parking lot and caravan to our final destination, Big Bend.

Mike, Susan and Bambi

We stop in Alpine to see the Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross State University. Terrific museum – we learn about the prehistoric era, Spanish explorers, Mexican Revolution, forts, Poncho Villa, settlers, ranchers, miners, etc. We come out with lots of big ah-ha’s along with hungry tummies.

Alpine, Texas

We take Jessica’s advice (the art guide at Marfa) and go to La Calavera (translation - The Skull), an outdoor Mexican place. Jessica’s is right -- their $10 combo plates are delicious. The heat does take a toll on us softies from California. On our way out of town, we stop at a “Whole Foods” style market. We feel right at home as we stock up on beer, wine and other essentials such as chocolate, cheese and nuts

Butterfield Inn

Ft. Davis Library

We stop in at one more tiny little Texas town, Marathon, to see the Gage Hotel, a restored rancher’s hotel offering the finest hotel and cuisine within hundreds of miles. It’s very ritzy and costs mega bucks to stay here!

The Gage Hotel	The Gage Hotel
The Gage Hotel	The Gage Hotel
The Gage Hotel	The Gage Hotel

As we head south to Big Bend, the wind picks up and the big Texas sky takes on a threatening look – love it when that happens.

We are happy to enter Big Bend National Park. Another 20 miles on the park’s main road we stop at the Fossil Bone Exhibit – wonderful exhibit and very informative.

Fossil Bone Exhibit	Fossil Bone Exhibit
Fossil Bone Exhibit	Fossil Bone Exhibit
Fossil Bone Exhibit	Fossil Bone Exhibit
Fossil Bone Exhibit	Fossil Bone Exhibit
Fossil Bone Exhibit	Fossil Bone Exhibit
Fossil Bone Exhibit	Fossil Bone Exhibit

Next stop is the Panther Junction Visitor Center -- the heart of Big Bend and the main spot to load up on hiking maps and good “ranger” advice. Not all things work out according to plans. The power source (for miles around) shuts down just as we settle into our seats to watch the Bend Orientation video. Without power, us homo sapiens are hosed.

Panther Junction Visitor Center

Heading to the Lodge

We drive 10 miles to Chisos Basin campgrounds and lodge. It’s a gorgeous area surrounded by the Chisos Mountains. Mike and Susan take Bambi to the Camper section while Bill and I continued to the lodge. Checking into the lodge (without electricity) is much more complicated now that computers rule our lives. A really nice lady, who resembles a Road Runner, is at the front desk. She is very helpful and gives us a lot of guidance throughout our stay.

After unpacking, we drive down to Mike and Susan’s Bambi for cocktails and then come back to the lodge for pasta and salad. A wicked storm seems to be brewing, but the power is back on!

Sunset at Chisos Lodge

May 18, 2018 – Big Bend to the tiny Mexican town of Boquillas del Carmen

The storm comes and goes during the night. We sleep right through it in the lodge, but Mike and Susan, nestled in Bambi, enjoy their close encounter with the lighting and the rain.

As the sun rises, the temperatures also rise. We have breakfast at the lodge, then gather up Mike and Susan for our first big day in Big Bend.

We drive 28 miles east to Rio Grande Village, then head a few miles north to Boquillas Canyon and stop at an official US Port of entry. We park and head to down to the Rio Grande and pay $5 round trip for a rowboat ride to cross to “the other side.” Today, the Rio Grande is not a mighty river, but rather, a flowing stream with just enough water to get a boat through.

Heading to Mexico	Heading to Mexico
Heading to Mexico	Heading to Mexico
Heading to Mexico	Heading to Mexico
Heading to Mexico	Heading to Mexico

5 minutes later, we disembark on Mexican soil. We opt not to ride a burro up the hill to the little town of Boquillas del Carmen. It would be cruelty to animals to place the entire weight of our bodies on those little donkeys, especially in this sweltering heat.

Boquillas del Carmen	Boquillas del Carmen
Boquillas del Carmen	Boquillas del Carmen
Boquillas del Carmen	Boquillas del Carmen

The town is adorable with great views overlooking the Rio Grande. We explore, buy a few silly souvenirs and take some pictures. We are treated to a delightful cool down when we go through Mexican Customs located in an A/C trailer that felt like walking into a refrigerator. There is a God (AKA Dios)!

Boquillas del Carmen	Boquillas del Carmen
Boquillas del Carmen	Boquillas del Carmen
Boquillas del Carmen	Boquillas del Carmen
Boquillas del Carmen	Boquillas del Carmen
Boquillas del Carmen	Boquillas del Carmen
Boquillas del Carmen	Boquillas del Carmen
Boquillas del Carmen	Boquillas del Carmen

Nancy and Friend

The Rio Grande--U.S. - Mexican Border

After a while, we find a shaded area next to one of the town’s little restaurants. We order Margaritas right away. An aging “Serenading Senior Citizen” with his trusty guitar slowly seats himself next to our table and pours out song after song of Mexican old favorites. He does an exceptionally bad rendition of "Vaya Con Dios." The sweet little couple who owns the restaurants make delicious Margaritas, so we stay to order more drinks along with goat tacos, the daily special.

Margaritas in Boquillos de Carmen	Mike and Susan
Serenading Senior Citizen	Heading Back

We amble around town until the heat finally gets to us. Then we head back to the icy cold trailer so Mexican customs can process our papers. Once, on the other side, we wait in line at US Customs for a personal phone interview with a real agent in El Paso. We all pass and are stamped out and welcomed back into the U.S. Crazy what one must do to spend a few hours in a little lazy Mexican town.

On the way back to the lodge, we by-pass the turn off to Hot Springs, an old SPA that people flocked to in the 1920’s.

We drop Mike and Susan at Bambi at the hot and windy campground. We go back to the lodge to shower and recover. Bill heads down to the visitor’s center to be close to the strongest WIFI signal around. I bury myself in a downloaded Netflix for an “off the grid” experience.

Later, we have cocktails at Mike and Susan’s, followed by burgers (grilled perfectly by Mike), followed by a lovely late night talk – then call it a day – a magical day in Mexico.

May 19, 2018 – Big Bend – Lost Mine Trail

We hike the beautiful 5-mile Lost Mine trail. We climb from the Chisos Basin to South Rim and then to the popular Window (a narrow slit in in gorge). The trail is steep with a gorgeous vista on the top.

Lost Mine Trail	Lost Mine Trail
Lost Mine Trail	Lost Mine Trail
Lost Mine Trail	Lost Mine Trail
Lost Mine Trail	Lost Mine Trail
Lost Mine Trail	Lost Mine Trail
Lost Mine Trail	Lost Mine Trail
Lost Mine Trail	Lost Mine Trail
Lost Mine Trail	Lost Mine Trail

Lost Mine Trail

We take the afternoon off to stay cool and lick our wounds.

For dinner, Susan makes the most wonderful pasta for us topped with fresh grilled veggies. Mike is a champion griller! Bravo to our hosts. They know just the right chocolates and with the proper wine pairings. No wonder we love our evenings with Mike and Susan!

May 20, 2018 – Big Bend – Santa Elena Canyon

We explore the southwestern part of Big Bend. From Chisos Basin Lodge to the furthest point, Santa Elena Canyon, is about 60 miles. About half of the trip is on the scenic Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, winding through buttes and mesas and cacti of all varieties.

We stop along the way for a five-minute walk at the Sam Nail ranch, site of an early Big Bend ranch. Near the oasis is the ruins of an adobe ranch house, two windmills and a couple of non-native trees – figs and pecans. The Nail family planted to transform the desert. Didn’t work -- the desert ultimately won out.

Sam Nail Ranch	Sam Nail Ranch
Sam Nail Ranch	Sam Nail Ranch
Sam Nail Ranch	Sam Nail Ranch
Sam Nail Ranch	Sam Nail Ranch

Next stop is the Village of Castolon. Up on a hill, overlooking the Rio Grande, this place really speaks to me. First ranchers and then the military made their home here with old cavalry barracks and a Trading Post (active from 1914 – 1916) as leftover reminders. Then, in 1922, businessman Wayne Cartledge planted cotton crops in the Rio Grande river-bottom fields. He also introduced steam and gasoline powered irrigation pumps to make his business grow. After 1923, he increased the value of his cotton by “ginning” it (removing the seeds from the cotton fibers) before he sold it. By 1942 increasing costs and falling prices ended the cotton venture. All that’s left is a few old machines scatter about the falling down buildings. The desert could not be tamed.

Castolon	Castolon
Castolon	Castolon
Castolon	Castolon
Castolon	Castolon
Castolon	Castolon
Castolon	Castolon

Called “The Grand Canyon of Texas,” Santa Elena Canyon is a breath-taking 1500’ deep vertical gorge. We take a 1.5 mile (round trip) trail into the narrow canyon with plenty of eye-popping views of the steep cliffs over the Rio Grande River. The canyon was shadowy and breezy and a great way to beat the heat. Susan notices an unusual “multi-note” bird song (or birdcall) that created the same odd melody over and over again. We never spotted the bird, but later on the internet, I find our mysterious singer – the Canyon Wren. Check it out -- Canyon Wren Song.

Santa Elena Canyon

Santa Elena Canyon	Santa Elena Canyon
Santa Elena Canyon	Santa Elena Canyon

Santa Elena Canyon

After the canyon and a long drive, we still have enough adventure left in us to do Terlingua, an old ghost town. We bypass the shortcut – Old Maverick Road, a 12-mile unpaved road. (We also bypass the wear and tear on the car and on our old bodies. Good decision!)

We arrive in the metropolis of Study Butte / Terlingua, hot, tired, confused and in need of a beer. Little did we know we are entering our own Twilight Zone.

Somehow, we find our way to the old cemetery up on a hill. I fall in love with the place with its simple crosses lining the desert hilltop. I feel as if I knew the residents. The towns’ folk kept their connections with the dead by visiting often and leaving gifts on the gravesites. November 2nd is one of the biggest town celebrations. The residents spend the entire day partying with the dead.

Terlingua Cemetary	Terlingua Cemetary
Terlingua Cemetary	Terlingua Cemetary
Terlingua Cemetary	Terlingua Cemetary

Terlingua Cemetary

I photograph almost every grave -- “getting to know” the dearly departed. It was not easy to get Susan and me to leave that place because we love graveyards. Finally, we are enticed in check out the town of Terlingua.

Around 1905 and almost overnight, quicksilver (mercury) mine put Terlingua on the map. The town was quickly populated and named itself “Terlingua” (meaning 3 languages – Native American, Spanish and English) – Bravo for culture diversity.

The mercury-mining era peaked at the turn of the 20th century and Terlingua was abandoned. No doubt, the mercury contributed to the crazy town vibe. Another contributing factor is that the folks who came here to revive the old ghost town tended to be aging hippies, artisans and run of the mill Bohemians. My guess is that several checked out of re-hab and found Terlingua the place to call home. You know their stories by the crazed look in their eye and the tattoos that cover their bodies. (NOTE: I do tend to over-generalize to make the story richer. But, trust me, the town is quirky.)

None of the bars are open when we arrive in town. Bill checks his messages; Susan and Mike explore a very interesting art gallery; and I, with my camera in hand, roam through the old town, checking out the buildings, church and sculptures scattered about.

Terlingua Ghost Town	Terlingua Ghost Town
Terlingua Ghost Town	Terlingua Ghost Town

Around 3 o’clock, the locals gather informally on the porch of the Starlight Theatre (like they do every night) to play music – some good, some really bad. Next door to the Starlight Theatre is the Terlingua Trading Company. It’s a large, air-conditioned gift store, located in the Old Trading Post. I peruse room after room of very cool, expensive gifts -- well targeted for tourists – making it a modern day gold mine. In spite of the gift shop, no one would ever accuse the town of being overly commercialized. However, Terlingua is finding a viable business niche, attracting the overflow tourists from Big Bend and offering lodging, food, and an abundance of adventure trips like horseback riding and river rafting.

Terlingua Ghost Town

We leave the town, looking for a place to have a beer and grab a bite. We are frustrated because places recommended on TripAdvisor are closed. At last, we find one lively spot with music playing and locals hanging out. We enter the dark scuzzy, skanky bar with filthy tables and lingering smell of spilled beer. The staff, for some reason, gives us their openly hostile stares. We leave the bar and go out to the patio to find a place to sit. There things go from bad to worse. Bill accidently kicks a dog sleeping in the doorway. It growls and tries to bite Susan. That was enough so we leave and the staff couldn’t have been happier. They sensed we were non-Trump supporters from California, I’m sure.

We were happy to be back on the road heading to the lodge and Bambi. We did make a quick snack stop and ate whatever we found in the car. The peanut butter and Fritos hit the spot.

It was nice to get back to the lodge / Bambi for a respite. Revived and relaxed, Mike and Susan come over for cocktails on our deck. They brought cans of “House Wine.” As we drank, we watch a group of deer exploring the peaceful grounds below.

Cocktails on the deck

House Wine

Big Bend Wildlife

We have our “Good-bye” dinner at the lodge. The chicken fried steak was to die for. We are sad to see our traveling buddies go – but they must go north to get out of this unbearable heat.

Bill’s middle toe on his left foot is throbbing and swollen. There is no medical service for miles around so naturally, I worry about him. I am very good at worrying.

May 21, 2018 – Big Bend – Balancing Rock / Dugout Wells / Hot Springs

Bill’s toe is better this morning – good enough for us to hike the Grapevine Hills Trail (2.2 miles round trip / 80 feet elevation gain). It’s a fun hike, going through a desert wash, then climbing up. The last part is my favorite -- scrambling up steep boulders to get to balanced rock. Beautiful hike.

Grapevine Hills Trail	Grapevine Hills Trail
Grapevine Hills Trail	Grapevine Hills Trail
Grapevine Hills Trail	Grapevine Hills Trail
Grapevine Hills Trail	Grapevine Hills Trail
Grapevine Hills Trail	Grapevine Hills Trail
Grapevine Hills Trail	Grapevine Hills Trail
Grapevine Hills Trail	Grapevine Hills Trail

We stop at Dugout Wells for lunch and a pit stop. Dugout Wells is a little oasis. Around 1900, an early settler saw tall cottonwoods growing in the desert. That meant running water. He dug out a spring to pool the seepage and later added a windmill to increase the flow. Before long, a ranching complex, a few houses, and the region’s first school sprung up near the windmill. The small frame schoolhouse inspired people of the area to call Dugout Wells a “cultural center of the Big Bend.”

Dugout Wells

Our next stop is at the Hot Springs trailhead. Hot Springs, an old spa, was quite the rage in the 1920’s. We take the 1.4-mile loop trail along the river where we see the remains of an abandoned motel and bathhouse facilities – very impressive. We also search for petroglyphs carved in the base of the cliffs that line the trail. We think we see some – but are not sure, probably just the heat affecting us.

Hot Springs	Hot Springs
Hot Springs	Hot Springs
Hot Springs	Hot Springs

It is 104 degrees. I decide to cool off in the hot springs (which is also 104 degrees). The slimy old, algae-covered foundation that is built directly over the hot springs made it very difficult to climb around. At one point, Bill had to pull me out – that’s when I had had enough of my dip in the springs.

Hot Springs	Hot Springs
Hot Springs	Hot Springs

We stopped for gas on our way back to the lodge. It’s our last night at the lodge so we celebrate by ordering, once again, the chicken fried steak. Stuffed as pigs, we waddled back to our room to pack up. Then Bill is off to huddle near the Visitor Center with other like-minded souls desperate to check messages. I stay off the grid in my room and watch more movies. (Highly recommend two documentaries – “Gleason” and “Dear Zachary: A Letter to a Son About His Father (2008)” – get your tissues ready!)

May 22, 2018 – Big Bend to Marfa

We must travel about 150 miles before we reach our destination tonight in Marfa at the Riata Inn. I plan several stops along the way because I’m crazy about the wild west and don’t want to miss a thing.

We head east out of Big Bend on Hwy 118. After we pass Terlingua (that wild and crazy ghost town), we pick up Hwy 170 in Lajitas – a little town that was put on the map by the Big Bend Golf Resort and Spa – exclusively for the rich and famous. We came this way to pick up Hwy 170 -- National Geographic describes it as one of the most scenic drives in the United States – and they are right! It winds its way through Big Bend Ranch State Park along the Rio Grande and at one point climbs over 1000 feet above the river below -- amazing views.

Hwy 170

We love the views and our stops –Here’s what we did on our way to Marfa.

STOP #1 - Barton Warnock Visitor Center, at the eastern entrance of Big Ben Ranch State Park, is a great place to stop to learn the geology of the Chihuahuan Desert. We first walk through 5-6 rooms, going from the earliest geologic times to the present day. I learn a lot about the Big Bend region (not that I remember it now). We next explore the desert garden outback scattered with fossilized rocks with embedded creatures from the times this place was a sea. The Ranger at the front desk is very informative and suggests we take a couple of trails in the park. Armed with trail maps, we’re off and running (oops – hiking).

Barton Warnock Visitor Center	Barton Warnock Visitor Center
Barton Warnock Visitor Center	Barton Warnock Visitor Center
Barton Warnock Visitor Center	Barton Warnock Visitor Center
Barton Warnock Visitor Center	Barton Warnock Visitor Center

STOP #2 – Closed Canyon Trail (Big Bend Ranch State Park) – At the trailhead we gobble down a peanut butter sandwich and some Fritos and then start the short hike (1.4 miles) into the canyon. No need for trail markers, we just follow the walls of the narrow slot canyon. The shadowy canyon, filled with echoing sounds of the birds and other critters, is a cool place to explore. When the canyon walls become too narrow and the rocks underfoot too slippery, we turn back. We didn’t want to turn back, but it seemed like a wise choice.

Closed Canyon Trail	Closed Canyon Trail
Closed Canyon Trail	Closed Canyon Trail

STOP #3 – Hoodoos Trail – We take the 1.1 loop trail that goes through strange geological rock structures call “Hoodoos.” At the overlook, we see stunning views of the Hoodoos, the Rio Grande River and its green valley with Mexico just across the river. The word, “Hoodoo,” originated in Africa and refers to the strange animal shapes and embodied evil spirits. In other parts of the Southwest, these rock formations are called “goblins.” Interesting trail.

Hoodoos Trail	Hoodoos Trail
Hoodoos Trail	Hoodoos Trail
Hoodoos Trail	Hoodoos Trail
Hoodoos Trail	Hoodoos Trail

STOP #4 - Ft. Leaton State Historic Site – a must see. Founded in 1759, Ft Leaton was never a military fort and only occupied by soldiers on rare occasions. The Rio Grande River ran right by it in the early days. Now the river wiggled itself a good mile south of here. It was just a puny little fort in the beginning – but location is everything and with water and fertile floodplain soils available, the place had it all.

Ft. Leaton State Historic Site

The story of the fort took another turn when in 1848, Benjamin Leaton and his wife Juana Pedrasa bought the property. They expanded it into a massive adobe structure to establish an important, fortified trading post on the Chihuahua Trail from 1848 to 1884 – on the San Antonio / El Paso trading route.

The Fort was home to their family and also home to many others passing through -- explorers, soldiers, traders, settlers, etc. – looking for food, lodging and safety. Both Native Americans and Anglo settlers alike found protection here against Native American raids and attacks by borderland outlaws.

The story of the fort is intriguing. The husband, Leaton, dies. The wife, Juana, marries Edward Hall and continues with the trading post business, but unsuccessfully. Edward loses the fort in foreclosure proceedings to John Burgess in 1862, but Edward refuses to leave. After ten years of this freeloader, an angry Burgess has a little breakdown and kills Hall – at the dinner table in the very fort. Then a vengeful son (of Leaton) kills Burgess. In spite of all this killing, the trading post operation continues until 1884 until it was abandoned. It sat decaying in the desert sun until it becomes an official historic site. Things change with funds and a wonderful restoration -- a real treasure.

We visit the living quarters, bakery, kitchen, chapel, Black Smith’s shop, corral, storage rooms and even a “dungeon,” or jail to hold the debtors (whipping post included). I am fascinated by the replica of a large ox cart (carreta) parked out in the corral. The Spanish brought their goods to the region in 1590 – probably the first wheeled vehicle to enter into what now is the U.S. It took 10 to 12 oxen to pull them. .

Ft. Leaton State Historic Site	Ft. Leaton State Historic Site
Ft. Leaton State Historic Site	Ft. Leaton State Historic Site
Ft. Leaton State Historic Site	Ft. Leaton State Historic Site

The fort has special exhibits about three curious historical figures:

Cabeza de Vaca was a Spanish explorer of the New World, and one of four survivors of the 1527 Narváez expedition. Shipwrecked on Galveston Island, he spent 8 years living with Native Americans. Eventually he and 3 other survivors walked a thousand miles to Mexico exploring much of Texas along the way – the part of Texas we are visiting now. What made de Vaca immortal was the books about the land and his adventure as a slave, trader, healer and spiritual leader to many natives. Fascinating accounts – fascinating man – and to think I didn’t learn anything about him in my high school Texas history classes!

Poncho Villa (1878-1923) was a famous Mexican revolutionary and guerilla leader. He joined an uprising against Mexican President Díaz in 1909, and later became leader of a cavalry unit and governor of Chihuahua. He hired film crews to document his greatness in battle. (There are several of his battles and execution scenes on YouTube – some staged, some real – some Real News, some Fake News.)

Poncho Villa

Villa killed more than 30 Americans in a couple of attacks in 1916 and encountered General John J. Pershing, who became commander of the American Expeditionary Force on the Western Front in World War I. Poncho out-foxed him and retired to a quiet life at his ranch until his assassination.

In 1916, at this very fort, General Pershing led a military manhunt expedition for 11 months whose goal was to capture (and kill) Pancho Villa. The expedition was ill-equipped, without adequate supplies and lack of support from the Mexican government. Pershing took a military force of 10,000 over 350 miles into Mexico. They routed Villa's revolutionaries, but failed to capture him. Poncho was something!

STOP #5 – We stop in the little sad sack town of Presidio to get a quick bite at the El Patio Restaurant. In spite of excellent recommendation – the cheese nachos were inedible – However the beer was nice and cold. We were surprised that none of the servers spoke English.

We happily headed out of Presidio, north on 67 to Marfa just as the clouds were rolling into the big Texas sky.

North on 67 to Marfa

STOP #6 – About 20 miles north of Presidio, we take a little detour into the Chianti Mountains looking for Shafter Ghost Town. Shafter shares much of the same history of its neighboring towns. In 1880, silver deposits are found. High rollers and investors gather venture capital to start up a mining operation. Before long, the settlement grows and Shafter becomes a bustling mining town with a post office, a school, a church, general store, etc. By 1940, Shafter has a population of 4,000 – and now there’s just a few souls left.

Along the road, Bill stops the car. I roll down my window to ask a lady out on a walk, “Where’s the ghost town?” She laughs out loud and says, “You’re in it.” Glad I could make her day.

On her advice, we drive up the hill to the old cemetery. Like Terlingua, the cemetery is perched up on a hill. Unlike Terlingua, the graves looked like they had been ignored for decades. It’s obvious nobody in Shafter comes up here to party (and drink) with the dearly departed.

Shafter Cemetary

After meandering through the simple white crosses (without names), I see a little building that looks like an old trailer badly in need of repair. I insist that we go in and have a look around. Turns out to be a treasure trove of information about a family who lived in town. The head of the family was George H. Brooks (1833-1911). He served in a California volunteer unit during the Civil War before settling in Presidio County in the 1860s. In 1878 he married Mexican native Ygnacia Reza. This cemetery began with the burial of their son, Albion E. Brooks, in 1904. George and Ygnacia, their descendants, and friends from the Fuentes and Gonzales families are buried here.

Inside the little building are fading pictures and newspaper clippings of the Brooks Family. “Their scrapbook,” behind glass display cases, was thorough and riveting. A historian would go nuts in here.

Brooks Family “Scrapbook"

We get to the Riata Inn in Marfa just in time for the NBC news on TV. (The desk clerk was shocked that I booked the room for $89. Now the rate is $170.)

Riata Inn, Marfa

Bill picks Stellina, a very nice place for dinner among the in-crowd in Marfa. Unfortunately, we have all evening to observe the clientele because our dinner took 1 ½ hours to deliver. The host and our waiter were very apologetic, but didn’t explain why – but did comp us on the pasta. The food was good – but we were too antsy and upset to enjoy it. I took several breaks to explore the town between courses.

Stellina Restaurant

After dinner, we explore the Hotel Paisano made famous because the movie, “Giant” was filmed there. Lovely.

Hotel Paisano

We didn’t get back to the room until after 9 pm – missed the lights of Marfa.

May 23, 2018 – Marfa to El Paso

Breakfast at Mondo’s — another greasy spoon, hardy and good -- harsh browns, eggs, bacon, etc. Got to stop living like this.

We drive three hours to El Paso. Half way there, the car’s indicator light shows low pressure in the left rear tire. We stop along the way to add air … which slowly leaks out by the time we get to El Paso – annoying and cuts into our precious time to explore El Paso.

Slow Leak

STOP #1 – Border Patrol Museum is a bit shabby and thread bare, but has a wonderful homemade vibe about it and is FREE! It’s packed with items that trace the history of the border patrol both at the Mexican and Canadian borders. We learned a lot about how the Border Patrol has come to be what it is today. However, the best part of the museum wasn’t the displays, but a very interesting conversation we had with two of the head agents, who just happened by. We learn so much about what it’s like to be in their shoes. It’s a lonely, scary job – and even with the kindest of hearts, one can easily become jaded in this line of work. (One of the agents was a woman in the force for about 30 years. She faced even more challenges as she was breaking the glass ceiling.) We are very grateful for their insights and their stories .. Although I wanted to, I didn’t dare ask for a selfie with them.

Border Patrol Museum	Border Patrol Museum
Border Patrol Museum	Border Patrol Museum

STOP #2 – We share a sandwich at Subway’s in a mall located at Fort Bliss. The entire mall is filled with military. They all look so young and innocent. (We look so old and helpless.)

STOP #3 – Fort Bliss and Old Ironsides Museums have a huge collection of military memorabilia dating back to the cavalry – 168 years of military stuff and it’s FREE. The Fort, established in 1848 and named after LTC William Bliss, is home to nearly 40,000 service personnel (half of them had lunch at the mall with us!)

It’s a little tricky to find the checkpoint to stop and get a pass to enter the active Army base. It gets even trickier to find the museum, housed in the old Post Exchange. We knew we were there when we saw half the parking lot filled with tanks, personnel carriers, planes, weaponry and other military equipment.

Fort Bliss

The museum is HUGE and its displays are a bit tattered. However, the information on the old postures is terrific. If you have the stamina to absorb it all, you’ll get the full history of this Army post from its beginnings in downtown El Paso with a regiment of mounted infantry to its present day status as America’s Tank Division Museum.

Old Ironsides Museum

Some of the information that still lingers with me is:

In one of the rooms, the German American Friendship Hall, hangs a simple poster with a timeline highlighting our association with Germany) from 1942 to the present day. We read every word in fascination because it is the story of our life crystalized into clear and simple terms. We were amazed that this boring-looking chart had such an impact on us. (Sorry I can’t find the content anywhere.)

Old Ironsides Museum

The history of rations (a very quirky and odd collection of rations distributed over the years). I’m sure the concept of power bars came directly from early WW II rations.
General Pershing’s connection with Ft. Bliss – both with the mounted infantry to introducing tank warfare in preparation for WW II. In fact, Old Ironsides was the United States Army’s 1st Armored Division starting in World War II and it was also the first US army armored division to see battle in World War II – and there was Pershing again, leading the charge.

Old Ironsides Museum

With our heads loaded with all manner of weaponry and battles, we stop again to fill that damn tire with air and then head to downtown El Paso. El Paso has had a major facelift in the “Art Center” – heart of El Paso. I was blown away – lots of money is being poured into this place. The old tour book guides I checked out from the library made me scoff at going into El Paso during my trip planning. Now I am sorry we didn’t spend at least one night here. We only have time to visit one place.

El Paso Art District

STOP #4 – The Art Museum

The El Paso Museum of Art is cooler that a lot of the bigger, hoity-toity museums I’ve visited and it’s free. The first floor is filled with colorful and crazy Chicano art from the collection of Cheech Marin (of Cheech and Chong fame). (Added note – Riverside, CA is building a new gallery to house all of Cheech’s collection – can’t wait to see it.) The other floors pleased my eye as well with western art, portraits and landscapes from the 19th and 20 century.

El Paso Art Museum	El Paso Art Museum
El Paso Art Museum	El Paso Art Museum
El Paso Art Museum	El Paso Art Museum
El Paso Art Museum	El Paso Art Museum
El Paso Art Museum	El Paso Art Museum
El Paso Art Museum	El Paso Art Museum

Color was everywhere – even the restroom gave me a charge. I didn’t want to leave this beautiful, quiet and playful place, but we had a plane to catch, so off to the airport we go, left rear tire leaking all the way!

El Paso Art Museum

Got to the airport at 4:30 and said good-bye to the car. Although he didn’t mean too, Bill had to say good-bye to his pocketknife at security. There were limited dining choices -- I got a yogurt and Bill a Burger King – a very odd sight. We board the plane and I try to catch up on my travel journal – West Texas – YOU WERE COOL!

Catching up on my travel journal